Ten Tips For Travelling By Train (and how I bruised my boob)

 Enjoying Your Trip on Amtrak       


Tip#1 Appreciate the beauty of the old stations. These were standing when glamorous movie stars like Clark Gable, Cary Grant and Kathrine Hepburn travelled from New York to Hollywood met by throngs of screaming fans and reporters snapping photos of them detraining. Before airlines, this is how America travelled long distances. The detail and grandeur afforded to these stations is amazing. Many have been restored to their original glory, others have not.        

The gorgeous detail all over Seattle's station



Detail in Seattle's Union Station



Tip #2 Grasp how small it is. Everything on a train is compact, too compact for really comfortable travel. Like the airlines, Amtrak is trying to squeeze every last inch out of the layout to make the most money.  It’s hard to judge the room sizes from the photos on Amtrak.com. Here is a description of the various ways to travel by Amtrak.    

The hallways you will careen down

Coach Coach consists of overhead racks for your stuff and a semi-reclining chair. The best that can be said is they are more comfortable than airline chairs and have significantly more room between rows. A lot of people bought 2 seats side-by-side so they could curl up on the double seats. Some slept on the floor in front of their seats. Coach on most of the legs of our trip had a  lot of nice people and a few iffy types travelling there. I wouldn’t want to leave my stuff lying out around some of them. We encountered a self-confessed drug runner, drunks, angry young men and plain scary people in coach. The people in the sleeper cars were all quite nice and friendly.        

Roomettes The roomettes are basically two chairs facing each other knee to knee with a window on one side and a sliding door on the other. We saw solitary men in the roomettes and it seemed like a better way to go than coach but still excruciatingly small. I’d only recommend these for singles. The two chairs convert into a bed a night.       

Bedrooms The bedrooms are a long sofa in front of a sink with an uncomfortable armchair and a private “bathroom”.  One of the things you can do to avoid claustrophobia in a bedroom is to leave your room door open to capture the views across the corridor to the windows on the other side of the train. That does mean people walking down the hall will look in at you as they pass. Take your pick, claustrophobia or exhibitionism. You have that option only with bedrooms; roomettes are across from other roomettes. The windows in the bedrooms and across the hall are good-sized and on some trains back east the bedrooms are vaulted with an upper window as well.         

A Bedroom


Family bedrooms This is where the sliding door between two bedrooms is left open. This allows the parents in one room and the kids in another with a connecting door. If we had kids, it would be the only way to travel by train. Even without kids, a couple could keep their suitcases open on a lower bunk in one bedroom and live in the other bedroom with more room and less juggling of bags when it came time to get dressed each day.    


The stairs

Bathrooms  The bathrooms in the bedroom compartment are phone booth small.  It was hips from wall to wall and to close the door, you banged your knees. To be blunt about it, unless you are skinny and short, you can sit or you can wipe, you can’t do both. Wet wipes are a good idea. This tiny bathroom also doubles as a shower. They recommend that you shower sitting down. That’s good advice. Downstairs in the sleeper cars is a larger public shower which is the size of maybe 3 phone booths. There is a door that locks, a pile of clean towels, a sack for used towels, and a shower that is just a shower and it’s about 3/4 the size of a regular shower. It was almost luxurious by comparison. 

the teeny tiny toilet/shower featuring my husband who is a good sport for being my model

Beds I found the beds uncomfortable, but I’ll admit I have sleep issues. My  husband slept fine although he didn’t like climbing up that ladder to the top bunk which can be dangerous when the train suddenly sways. When the beds are open there is approximately 3 inches between the bed and the sink and you have to climb over the bed if you want to exit the room when the bed is down. The beds are singles and wide and long enough to accomodate an average adult or two very small, very friendly people.

Tip #3  Have easily identifiable bags I got tired of searching for our black roller bags in a sea of black roller bags and so I ordered this wild luggage from Heys. These bags attracted a lot of attention and comments everywhere we went. The porters saw them and made for us straight away. I guess matching luggage says “big tip” in Redcap Land. They raced to assist us at every station seating us in the first tram going. It made us feel pretty special. Everyone called us “The Canadians with the luggage”. It seems the nicer you are dressed and the better your luggage is, the better service you’ll get.   

Our "magic" luggage

Tip #4 Prepare for a lack of security None of the doors to bedrooms or roomettes lock, except when you’re inside. When you go to  the diner or club car, you leave all your stuff where anyone can get at it. We didn’t have anything stolen, but I always took my purse and camera with me.
A good idea: Don’t bring valuables and keep your wallet with you at all times.
The porters told us that they have had surprisingly few thefts from rooms or stored luggage. The only one that one porter recalled was when someone left wrapped Christmas presents downstairs in the luggage rack and they were stolen which was a shame because they arrived with nothing for the grandchildren at Christmastime. The Porter did warn them not to do it, so it pays to listen to their advice.


Tip#5  What to pack for train travel     

  1.  Take only a small carry-on bag each. You won’t have room for more no matter what your accommodations are on the train. When it comes to train travel less is too much.
  2. Pack only 3-4 outfits made from moisture wicking fabric or polyester. This will not wrinkle, take up much room and dries quickly when you wash it. Tilly Endurables sells moisture wicking clothing that is designed to dry overnight. In humid climates, we found it took 2 days to dry.
  3. Don’t bother with toiletries. Everywhere you travel, even Amtrak sleepers, they have soap, shampoo, conditioner, tissues, towels and body lotion. Also you can buy what you need in the Club Car or at the stations. 
  4. Pack flip-flops rather than slippers. Slippers are what I was wearing when I fell down the perilous stairs. My foot slipped on the step and down I tumbled. Luckily, I only bruised a foot and the waiter and the attendant were very kind and kept bringing me ice packs. Also because the toilets are also showers, the floors are wet. Or other people have been there and God knows what’s on the floor. Flip flops take up very little space and you can rinse them off in your travel-sized combo toilet/shower.
  5. Don’t bring books, you won’t read them. I am a voracious reader but I found taking books on this trip to be a waste of time. The shaking of the cars is so extreme that I kept losing my place as the book and I careened around in the seat. I must have read the same paragraph 7 times before I quit. Also the interesting passing scenery is a distraction from reading. Some people became queasy reading while  the train was moving.
  6. Don’t bother with laptops. The movement of the train is  too much to operate a mouse easily. The electric outlet is near the sink so people can plug in electric razors. If you want to use the table that folds down between the bench and the chair, you’ll need extension cords and the table really isn’t large enough for laptops.
  7. Pack Travel Scrabble or card games are a better idea for passing the time on a train and they are easy to pack and easy to play on a jiggly surface.
  8. Don’t pack DVD’s. I tried watching movies on my laptop but trains are noisy with the clickity-clack of tracks, the whistles and the engine noise and we could barely hear the dialog. If you wanted to do this, pack headphones.
  9. Pack Ear plugs (wax ones) are the only way to go.  The walls between the bedrooms/roomettes or lack of them in coach means that you can hear everything your neighbors do, how often they go to the bathroom (the flushing mechanism is very loud), if they speak loudly or snore-you hear it. 
  10. Pack a sturdy pair of shoes. The junction between trains is perilous. The train sways and jolts so much that stepping from one car into another, you can suddenly find one foot up six inches higher than the other. If you step on the crack between the cars with flimsy footwear or barefooted you can lose toes. People have, they told us.


Tip #6 Commotion about the motion Whistles, swaying, the rhythmic clickity-clack of the tracks are calming to some people. To others it is an endless annoyance, to a few it can be nauseating. My husband had dislocated his shoulder shortly before we left and the rocking motion acted like a kind of therapeutic massage on his sore muscles. I felt like a child again in the back seat of my parent’s car. I found I napped a lot because of it. I found it to be relaxing and it didn’t bother me if I sat facing the direction of travel or not. But some may. Be prepared to be slammed against walls. If you are frail or have a bad back or arthritis – don’t travel by train. I am fairly nimble and I got slammed so hard into the edge of my sliding door that I badly bruised my breast. bruising soft tissue is very hard to do, you really have to impact to get a bruise there.  I found that in order to counteract the swaying motion, my abs, legs, hips and knees got terribly sore. Motion sickness medicine, muscle relaxers or Tylenol is good to have on hand.      


Tip #7  Be social.  Dining Car  They seat you with other people so prepare to have to make small talk during meals. You can ask your attendant to bring your meals to your room. But no one does this. After being in your cubicle for hours you look forward to careening out your breast-bruising door, down the narrow hallways, through the toe-eating  junction and eating train food in the dining car with strangers. Observation car During the day, the observation car is a good place to socialize. For some reason the drunken idiots congregate in the observation cars and often sleep there at night. There aren’t very comfortable seats there, but at least they are pointed at the windows. All other accommodations make you crane your neck to the side to see out the window. On the Starlight Express (Los Angeles-Seattle) they have a Club Car just for the sleeper car. It has comfortable swivel chairs which was the most comfortable seat on our trip.      


Tip #8  Don’t forget to tip  Even though the food is all included when you book at bedroom, you need to leave a tip for the waiter. They are folks who balance over you with a hot pot of coffee as the train bumps and sways so you’d better make it a good one. The person who looks after your room, converts it while you are at dinner and breakfast, and helps you with any requests should be tipped as you leave the train. We got extremely good service on 2 occasions and ok service once. We tipped our room attendant between $10-20 for his attention to us.       


Tip #9 Don’t expect cleanliness  I found the trains to be pretty dirty. There is a lot of dust and on one train our bedroom smelled of mildew. I doubt they ever vacuum the carpets, upholstery or curtains going by the fact that when you sit down puffs of dust flies up. The public bathrooms get  filthy very quickly and they never empty the trash in your room even during long trips which can become smelly. A travel air purifier is a good idea. Wet wipes also come in handy. If you are a clean freak, bring some Clorox disinfecting wipes.     


Tip #10 Expect “Train Food”  When you book a sleeper room, you get free food 3 meal a day, anything on the menu. It’s a great deal, even if it isn’t the greatest food. I call it “train food”. It was pretty bland, dull, repetitive and often they didn’t get a full shipment of supplies which meant that some menu items were not available. The diner food was better than the Club Car which was just microwaved hamburgers, hot dogs and junk food. The diner car served microwaved meals. The best thing on the menu was a pot roast that was called Flatiron Steak. The vegetables are cooked to death,  rubbery and served piping cold. The potatoes are palatable and the desserts weren’t too bad.  But if you’re hoping for fine cuisine after reading the menus online, don’t get your hopes up. It was just okay. They use the same bottled water on every train. I found it to be undrinkable. I would strongly suggest you bring your own water or drink juices or coffee that are free to sleeper car passengers.     


The bottom line? I’d travel Amtrak again, now that I know where to find the big bathroom and who you have to yell at to make them clean it. I’d leave a lot of stuff behind. I’d stay awake through Montana nights to look at the stars. I’d order the pot roast again. I’d enjoy the cold little bottle of champagne or sparkling cider the attendant brings you at the beginning of your trip. I’d savour lying in bed listening to the train whistle and drifting off to the rocking of the train. I’d listen for the echoes of the golden days of train travel in the old stations. I’d enjoy travelling up the coast of California looking for sea lions and dolphins. I’d wear sturdy shoes a padded bra and maybe a helmet.       




34 thoughts on “Ten Tips For Travelling By Train (and how I bruised my boob)

  1. Usually the areas around train stations are pretty bad neighborhoods. I wouldn’t think it would be a good place to look for a hotel. Better to take a taxi to a nicer part of town. Have a good trip!

  2. I loved your report. I want to go around the country in one last fling by myself. How would I make reservations at a hotel if I chose to stop in a cowboy town? ARe there places to stay near the train stop?

  3. Thank you, Sandra. I hope you have fun. It’s such a pity that Amtrak doesn’t put more money into making it just a tad better, that would make all the difference. Give the bathroom/shower just a bit more room, update the dusty furnishings, hire people on the trains who clean it instead of waiting until it gets to the end of the line and most of all hire good employees who can make your trip so special. We had several of those people travel with us and they’re gems. You should write back and tell us all about the route you took and your experiences. All ‘board!

  4. Hello Laurel (I love your name)! Thanks so much for the info. I’m traveling by train in a few weeks. I did it once before years and years ago and I remember hating it. With the airfares so high, I decided to revisit the idea. Your blog has helped me to better prepare for my journey from Philadelphia, PA to Meridian, MS (24 hour trek). Wish me luck! Sandra

  5. My husband and I are trying our first Amtrak overnight…first time Amtrak other than the Milwaukee-Chicago trip. He will fit snugly in the bedroom toilet/shower. He says thankfully it’s only one night. I’m the lucky, albeit older, one to sleep on top.

    I enjoyed your review and photos. Can’t wait to careen down the halls and eat train food! Thank you for sharing your experience. Teehee.

  6. First of all, I love your “name”. I loved that movie! Our trips were both full of adventures. I’m sorry I missed the Chicago station, that sounds like a destination in itself. I’m sure my readers will value having heard your story of traveling by train and I’m glad you didn’t bruise your boob. 🙂

  7. I have traveled Amtrak, both short/long trips. We “winter” in Los Angeles and have usually driven or flown but due to my husband’s breathing problems, we had no choice but train travel. We left Michigan, arrived in Chicago where we boarded the train to Los Angeles which is about a 45 hour trip. We had a roomette, and here is where is will I will differ a bit with our very talented blogger. I am a “plus size” lady and truth be told, I really had no problems, were things tight sometimes, sure……those bathrooms truly are like a phone booth but “where there’s a will, there’s a way”. We had a roomette, and the two seats facing each other were very large and comfortable. My husband would often go explore the train, socialize. – so I would get to put my leg up on the extra seat and stretch out a bit more. When the beds were down, I had plenty of room and slept like a baby to the rhythms of the train. The seats in the diner car are a little snug but worked for me just fine. The shower was fabulous, forgot for a second I was on a train, but do hold on to the hand bars, it’s like being in a shower on a roller coaster, lol. I found the food i. The diner car to be very good but repetitious since you have the exact same menu for every meal, breakfast menu, lunch menu, dinner menu.I do not eat any beef and they had plenty of other options for me, desserts were yummy!
    I had bought two large candles in Newport Beach and packed them in bubble wrap for the trip from LA to MI. These were in my checked baggage, when I returned home they were both missing.
    Also on the trip home we were stuck in Colorado for 6 hours due to snow blocking a tunnel – this made many if us miss connections to our destinations, we were to arrive in Chicago at two in the afternoon but we didn’t arrive until 10:00…….with no more trains at that time of night seven of us were boarded into a large van for the four hour drive to MI. This and a few other problems on the train caused my husband to contact Amtrak, and we were given about a one third refund, if your train is very late always ask for a partial refund!! If you get a room, you automatically get your meals free in the diner (which are not cheap if you have to pay) and have access to the private lounge in the bigger stations. We were able to access the ones in Chicago, and Los Angeles. Once you have done this it is hard to go back to waiting for your train in the normal passenger waiting area. They have sofas, huge chairs, newspapers, computers, wifi, televisions, tea/coffee, assorted juices, pop machines, snack foods to include Sara Lee individually wrapped pound cakes, big baskets of fruit, bags of Frito-Lay snacks, cookies. the Chicago station was huge but the LA station, while smaller was very comfortable as well. You can check your small bags in the lounge (like a coat check) so you can go enjoy the fabulous architecture and restaurants and shop! I could go on for days but I think you have a flavor now of traveling by train 🙂

  8. You could certainly see your expertise within the article you write.
    The sector hopes for even more passionate writers such as you who
    aren’t afraid to mention how they believe. All the time go
    after your heart.

  9. In our room there were two beds, one above the other. We chose to sleep one per bed because my husband dislocated his shoulder right before the trip and I didn’t want to bump it. There would be room for most people to sleep two to a bed. You really can’t keep suitcases on the other bed though because it has to fold down during the day because it makes it hard to leave the cabin otherwise. The beds take up a lot of space. We kept our locked luggage downstairs in a communal storage area taking only overnight bags with us and rummaging in our big bags for new clothes every few days. Happy trails!

  10. Laurel, I really enjoyed your post. I will be spending close to 80 hours on Amtrak in the coming weeks, traveling from east coast to west and back. It’s been about 30 years since I’ve done that.
    I appreciate all of the details you included in your post and the photos as well.The one thing you didn’t mention is that in the roomettes, there is another bed that drops down from the wall, so that if two of you are traveling together, one sleeps below and one above. At least, that’s the way I remember it. You would logically have to have two beds for the two seats in the roomette. And those suitcases! What a hoot.

  11. Thank you. I’m glad your trip was so great. I wish the crews were all as good as the good ones. We had some delightful crews and some insultingly bad. With some personnel improvement and sprucing up of the cars and improvement of the food, Amtrak could be much more successful. I hope they get there because it has the potential to be a lovely way to travel. I’m glad my blog could help.

  12. Your post really helped me prepare for our Amtrak trip. We traveled on the Capitol Limited (one night each way) and California Zephyr (two nights each way) and got home 4/9/2014. My husband and I had a bedroom in a sleeper car all six nights. Overall, we loved the trip, but there is a great difference in crews. There were no toiletries except hand soap. One train had towels in the downstairs shower. On the other 3 trains, we had to take the towels from our ‘bathroom’. Daily papers (USA Today) were due to end on April 1st, but we got a local paper on the return trip. I disagree about books. I loved reading on the train. I took 2, my husband 1. I finished both of mine on the trip out, then read his on the way home. My favorite place to hang out was the lounge/observation car. Most comfortable place (by far!) was the table end of the car. One can sit at a table and read, do puzzles or play games. Much more comfortable than the lounge chairs that face the windows. I liked the bottled water (Crystal Geyser) a familiar brand. I agree that the food was good but not great. There again, the cook really makes a difference. The Amtrak signature steak was passable when we were headed west but amazing on the return trip. Better taste, texture and presentation. I took earplugs but we never used them. We were too excited to sleep the first night but slept like stones the other five. On the newer cars, the mattresses are memory-foam type, though very thin. Much more comfortable than the old mattresses we had on both legs of the Limited. As a coffee drinker, I must say that I really enjoyed the coffee on Amtrak. Not quite Tim Horton’s or Dunkin’ Donuts, but much better than I expected. And that includes the coffee at the drink station in the sleeper car (when you have a good attendant. One porter never made any coffee at all!) We are already planning our next Amtrak trip. Thanks Laurel for helping make our first one a rousing success!

  13. Hi there! This post could not be written any better!
    Reading through this post reminds me of my previous
    room mate! He always kept talking about this.

    I will forward this post to him. Pretty sure
    he will have a good read. Many thanks for sharing!

  14. Gayla, I don’t recall being anything but comfortable temperature wise. It’s always wise to carry a lap blanket when you travel, you never know.

  15. Great information and so well written. I’m wondering what the temperature is like on the train. Do they keep it cool where one should keep a sweater handy and at nighttime would a warm pair of pajamas be good or perhaps a lap blanket during the day time for napping?

  16. Thank you for your amusing and educational blog! I learned a lot and enjoyed the read too! My partner and I will be travelling for the first time on a sleeper train from the East Coast in Roomettes to visit his parents in Denver at Christimas. Looking forward to the adventure. Thaks for the tips to help make the trip a success! Mark M.

  17. No roommates. A roomette is just a tiny space, good for one person where you have two chairs facing each other then at night they fold them up to make a single bed. It’s in it’s own little space not much bigger than the chairs. It’s private and secure unlike coach which is to be avoided at all costs, in my opinion. It’s in a quieter car than coach too.

  18. QUick question? If I rent a roomette will I be assigned a roommate? Or for that matter any type of sleeping accommodations? I like the idea of a sleeper car but if I am going to be bunking with others I would probably save my money.

  19. I have been looking for information on train travel. We will be traveling by train roundtrip LA to Seattle and back on the Coast Starlight in December. We have booked the sleeper car roomett and one with the toilet/shower in it. The picture of the bedroom with the toilet/shower, and the discription of the public shower (with your Model possing for the picture) gives me a good idea of what to expect as we travel. Thank you for your travel blog

  20. I happened to come across your blog by accident. I was searching for what a shower looks like on an amtrak. I am traveling to New York by train and this will be my first long train trip. I throughly enjoyed your sexy luggage and your wonderful husband model. I was grateful for your posting of photos as well. This has helped me SO much. I am excited to go to New York. It will be a 14 hour train ride to meet a friend and I don’t wish to come off of the train looking a mess. Thank You!


  21. The stairs on board the trains are: (narrow), hopefully nobody is over weight or you’ll get stuck in them for sure, but they do have a LOWER seating section in each car for physically challenged passengers.

  22. (Pack Lightly when traveling), you’ll pick up souvenirs along the way, I picked up a Amtrak Hat (on board) and Pins of the towns I was visiting and placed them in my Amtrak hat of the towns that I have been to that Amtrak Serves.

  23. Came by way of a google search — thanks for the common sense tips and the dose of humour.

    And those suitcases? WOW.

  24. A pleasurable fun read.

    I love the atmosphere of coach with it’s scary people. And I love the various choices! – wiping or sitting when using the bathroom and for bed whether to sleep with a friendly small person.

    You are wonderful. I truly enjoyed this.

    Thank you!

  25. In true Laurel fashion, you have managed to take us along on your wonderful journey.

    Packed, with humour, advice and descriptive phrases this has been a delight to read.

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